Introducing the HBFP v1.5

This is the HBFP v1.5

Battery:
Lipo 7.4v 900mAh (15c)

HBFP V1 Parts:
Tail boom & tail motor assembly

HBFP V2 Parts:
Main Frame, Canopy, Main Shaft

Universal Parts:
Servo, Motors, Blades, Center Hub, Paddle Control, Swash Plate, Rotor Head, etc

Parts Not Used:
Landing Gear
**using training gear instead**

WHY?
I own (4) 7.4v lipo 900mAh
(1) HBFP V1
(1) HBFP V2
Lots of parts for the HBFP V2........bought it from Reptileman on this site

I broke the second main frame of my HBFP V1 and decided not to invest in it anymore. I still have lots of spare parts. I also own (4) 7.4 lipos that were just going to sit there since the HBVP V2 can't use them.

....I can go on to explain why,......but cutting to the chase here's some pictures.........AND it flies with the 7.4v with no problems.





CHECKOUT THE FUSE MODS



You will need two of this so the V1 tail boom can fit snug into the V2 frame. Sizes are 5/16 OD and 7/64 OD...I got them from ACE in the drawers by the screws section...they are called Nylon Bushings




Have fun Flying

REMEMBER......You can use the 7.4v Lipo!
<'///<

Very nice.
I was thinking the same thing. To convert the v1 just need a few parts. But I don't have 11.1 v battery. I wonder how v2 will fly with 7.4v. Maybe it will fly ok with 380x motor, not the stock.
If I have to buy the 11.1v, just can't think what to do with the 7.4v battery.

Maybe someone will try equipt v2 with 380x motor and 7.4v battery

Thanks for posting the pics. Maybe I will remove the skids from my V2 and just run with training gear alone like that. Save a little weight for all the other mods I'm piling on!

pinguin6218 wrote:

But I don't have 11.1 v battery. I wonder how v2 will fly with 7.4v. If I have to buy the 11.1v, just can't think what to do with the 7.4v battery.

A stock HBFP V2 is too heavy for a 7.4v lipo. I tried it and it lift only about 1 foot off the ground.

I don't have a scale to weigh the difference in weight for the V1.5 and V2 but I know by removing the skids and replacing the tailboom it made it lighter.

This is only my thought. Isn't that replacing the landing skid with training gear will create a lot of drag? Because I notice that on my HBFP v1. When I have training gear and try to learn FF, the bee is difficult to control. Then I tell to my self, I don't care if the bee will crash or not, I will take off the training gear. WOW, what a difference. The bee is very nice to fly. Although the weight of the training gear is only almost 18g! Not much. So I think it's not of the weight, but the drag the balls created.
Without the training gear, I can make very easy small turn. With the training gear on, the heli would make a big turn. It take a lot of effort to make a small turn.

pinguin6218 wrote:

This is only my thought. Isn't that replacing the landing skid with training gear will create a lot of drag?

I would say you are correct.

Another pilot crashed his V2 and decided to sell it. I bought it for the 4in1 (2.4ghz) and it came with a lot of spare parts. Unfortunately, it didn't come with a tail boom, canopy or skids.

So I took my old training gear and did a few mods to create the HBFP V1.5

I'm going to make skids out of piano wire and remove the training gear. I'll post pics when done.

<'///<

New skid set $2.70: http://www.xheli.com/honeybeev2.html
Tail boom is $2.94 and canopy is $4.33. Most all the bee 2 parts are $1-3 and I keep enough on hand to about rebuild most of the bird (just cuz I suck that bad at flying it).

UPDATE:

Custom Skids:
Piano Wire bent with a table vise. Do not heat up and bend or you will soften the wire and it's physical strength.



Nylon Bushing
Able to twist and pullout a little to allow play in tail boom. Same theory as loosening main blades.





Now the HBFP V1.5 is even lighter since I removed the training gear. I crashed it many times and never broke anything. "KNOCK on WOOD"