If any one is interested......Copy it and keep for your records.......
Checking and adjusting CYCLIC pitch:
Turn the head so that the flybar is perpendicular to the sides of the heli and you have one blade out front, one over the boom. Hold the flybar level, put your pitch gauge on the front blade. Set your throttle/collective stick to the zero degree position and verify that you have zero degrees pitch.
THEN move the aileron stick side to side. The flybar paddles will stay still and the blades will tilt with the stick movement. Move the stick full deflection left or right, and use the pitch gauge to measure the amount of pitch that the blade gets with full aileron movement. Adjust the AILERON number in the SWASH MIX menu so that you get no more than 6 or 7 degrees of aileron cyclic.
Turn the head 90 degrees, now the blades are perpendicular to the sides of the heli and the flybar is in line with the heli's centerline. Hold the flybar level.
Go back to the zero degree stick setting, verify that the blades are still at zero degrees. Then move the ELEVATOR stick full up and down. The flybar paddles will stay put, the rotor blades will tilt with the stick. Measure the amount of pitch you have on the MR blade as you hold full up or down elevator. Adjust the ELEVATOR number in the SWASH MIX menu until you have no more than 6 or 7 degrees of elevator cyclic pitch.
Some heavy 3D'ers gring the shaft collar setscrew head down and raise the cyclic to 9° and 10° for fast roll and flip
Word has it that you're only ever going to be able to use a total of about 17 degrees (collective + cyclic) before you start stalling the blades.
So if you've got +10 degrees of collective, then an additional 7 of cyclic, you'll achieve that 17 degree number with full collective, full cyclic.
If you have -10 degrees of collective, you'll still get that 17 degree total.
Subject: Setting Pitch Deflection 
Wed Aug 26, 2009 4:39 pm
