E_Sky HoneyBee Fixed Pitch Guide

No, this is NOT me flying

1 - Level Flybar Paddles, these need to be level with the outer paddle control frame, also verify both are equal distance from the rotor head.

2 - Balance Main Rotor Blades, use gift wrap tape to add weight to blades.

3 - Verify all Screws are Tight

4 - Balance the heli, with the battery inserted, hold the heli by the flybar and note if either the nose or tail hangs lower then the other, the HBFP is always tail heavy, so experiment with battery placement to balance the heli.

5 - Level Servo Arms and Swashplate, this is simply making sure the servo arms are as level as possible and making sure the swashplate is level with the frame, turn the heli on and put all trim tabs in the center, adjust the servo arms first then adjust servo linkages to level the swashplate.

6 - Check blade tracking (need a charged battery for this), it is prefered that this be done in a stable hover but as a beginner just paint the tip of one blade white (white-out correction fluid works great) and hold it in the air by the skids and SLOWLY spin it up. BE CAREFUL! As the blades spin up, watch to see if both blades spin evenly or if 1 blades swings higher then the other. If the blades do not track, then holding the lower swinging blade by the tip, gently twist the blade to give it more pitch. Heat from a hair dryer can help with this. Its not an exact science so don't expect to always have perfect tracking.

My recomendation for this is to purchase Carbon Fiber Main Blades, strong, track good and provide great lift at low speeds (meaning you won't need a bigger motor).

7 - Trim the heli using trims tabs, this is something that can ONLY be done properly in a minimum 3-4ft hover, any lower and the heli will be affected by its rotor wash and throw off proper trim adjustments, also note that it is almost impossible to perfectly trim a HBFP

That is it for basic set-up for the HBFP. After this its practice and adjusting the heli to how you want it. Remember that the heli will always slide to the left on take off no matter what you do, so forget trying to use trims to fix that.

Happy Flyin'



Another thing to take some time and read is the HBFP page on EFlightWiki

http://www.eflightwiki.com/eflightwiki/index.php?title=HoneyBeeFP


Something Else I feel you should do, add a ziptie here, it'll help prevent the frame from breaking there

[center]Recommended Replacement Parts

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Heres the most commonly broken parts

-Center hub (at least 1)
-Flybar's (come in 2 packs)
-Rotor Head (cheap, can be fixed when they break, but good to have spares, lots)
-Outer paddle control frame (small ball links that can break easily)
-Main blades (just one pair, they don't break very often though)
-Main Frame set (an $8 part)
-Ring Like push rods (really cheap buy as many as you can)
-Landing skids (beginners should start with super skids, very durable, but stock skids are nice too, just weak)
-Servo Linkage set (there are really small links that if not treated nice will break easily)
-tail rotor (there are small nubs that break off in bad crashes, can be reused, but its easier to have a new one)
-Spare tail motor (sometimes they last forever, sometimes they last for 5 flights)
- Tail rotor gear (hit the tail on something and the gear can break, not often but possible)



Also - The Century Hummingbird FP also shares some of the same parts as the Honeybee Fixed Pitch. Its funny because they are both referred to as "HBFP's" but the Hummingbird is a rare heli so anytime you see "HBFP" they are talking about the E_Sky HoneyBee Fixed Pitch (99.9% of the time ).

http://www.heli-world.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=381&view=all

Has anyone had experience with the Aluminum Central Hub from KRs hobbies? I ordered one and I hope it works out well because I would love to avoid having to replace Centrer Hub sets for the rest of my life!! I hate having to locate the hole for the pin!!

haven't tried one myself but let me know how it works out

Anyone have battery suggestions for the HBFP?

The Mystery batterys from Deal Extreme are hard to beat. I have four 7.4v, 900 Mah ones for my HBFP, about $7.50 each and allready have the plugs attached. I also have an 11.1v, 2100 Mah for my Belt CP that was about $25.00. I've been really happy with both. Also hac an 11.1v. 2400 Mah one on order that should be here this week. Just be prepared to wait about 2 to 3 weeks for your order to arrive. If you're not in a hurry, they are hard to beat. Go to nutcaze .com and click on his HBFP site and you will find a link to them.

Donnie D

added more info

what parts do i need to convert my hbcp2 to fixed pitch?

quite a few I believe, you'd need an entire head assembly and prob a new 4ch Tx

thanks nuttcaze, i've already got 4ch tx and rx from my lama, changed the esc and gyro board of the 3 in 1, i'll probably order the complete head of an fp

cool, keep us posted

jppaulino wrote:

what parts do i need to convert my hbcp2 to fixed pitch?

I think just whole new head

heres a pic of my old HBFP collection, I don't have any of it left though

You can strenghten the push rods like this:


use superglue and copper wire all along the piece. Believe me, they will not break so easily.

You can stenghten the rotos head this way: look at nuttcaze 's video on the tube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASM4FZEH254&feature=channel_page

I used the same method to strenghen also the paddle control frame, another weak part.

Also, to save: you can substitute the flybar with a 18 cm iron spoke of a byke: it's exactly 2 mm diameter, just like the HB flybar. Maybe you will prefer to eliminate the two small weight, as of course it's a bite havier than the original one. Just try, it will fly nice. Harmonic iron would be even better. Of course, a training kit carbon spoke of the same lenght can substitute the flybar.

Nuttcaze wrote:

quite a few I believe, you'd need an entire head assembly and prob a new 4ch Tx

No, you dont need new tx. You can use the cp2 tx. Just switch DIP1 to ON and Switch DIP2 to OFF behind the batteries. This will turn off ccpm mixing