ESky HoneyBee V2 Thread

Heres whats new about the HBFP V2.
-New Canopy
-New Frame, stronger design.
-New Skids, much lke the skids from the HBK II/V3.
-8mm Tail boom. Easier to change now.
-New Tail fin, much better with motor mount built in. DD motor fits right in without modifications.
-Flybar (metal) and Flybar paddles are from the Belt CP/V2
-New Main shaft, fixes the slop issues the original HBFP had.
-11.1v LiPo, and the heli actually balances now.
-Motors come with heat sinks.

Some Pictures

1 - Level Flybar Paddles, these need to be level with the outer paddle control frame, also verify both are equal distance from the rotor head.

2 - Balance Main Rotor Blades, use gift wrap tape to add weight to blades.

3 - Verify all Screws are Tight

4 - Balance the heli, with the battery inserted, hold the heli by the flybar and note if either the nose or tail hangs lower then the other, the HBFP is always tail heavy, so experiment with battery placement to balance the heli.

5 - Level Servo Arms and Swashplate, this is simply making sure the servo arms are as level as possible and making sure the swashplate is level with the frame, turn the heli on and put all trim tabs in the center, adjust the servo arms first then adjust servo linkages to level the swashplate.

6 - Check blade tracking (need a charged battery for this), it is prefered that this be done in a stable hover but as a beginner just paint the tip of one blade white (white-out correction fluid works great) and hold it in the air by the skids and SLOWLY spin it up. BE CAREFUL! As the blades spin up, watch to see if both blades spin evenly or if 1 blades swings higher then the other. If the blades do not track, then holding the lower swinging blade by the tip, gently twist the blade to give it more pitch. Heat from a hair dryer can help with this. Its not an exact science so don't expect to always have perfect tracking.

My recomendation for this is to purchase Carbon Fiber Main Blades, strong, track good and provide great lift at low speeds (meaning you won't need a bigger motor).

7 - Trim the heli using trims tabs, this is something that can ONLY be done properly in a minimum 3-4ft hover, any lower and the heli will be affected by its rotor wash and throw off proper trim adjustments, also note that it is almost impossible to perfectly trim a HBFP

That is it for basic set-up for the HBFP. After this its practice and adjusting the heli to how you want it. Remember that the heli will always slide to the left on take off no matter what you do, so forget trying to use trims to fix that.

Happy Flyin'



Another thing to take some time and read is the HBFP page on EFlightWiki

http://www.eflightwiki.com/eflightwiki/index.php?title=HoneyBeeFP

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[center]Recommended Replacement Parts

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Heres the most commonly broken parts

-Center hub (at least 1)
-Rotor Head (cheap, can be fixed when they break, but good to have spares, lots)
-Outer paddle control frame (small ball links that can break easily)
-Main blades (just one pair, they don't break very often though)
-Ring Like push rods (really cheap buy as many as you can)
-Servo Linkage set (there are really small links that if not treated nice will break easily)
-tail rotor (there are small nubs that break off in bad crashes, can be reused, but its easier to have a new one)
-Spare tail motor (sometimes they last forever, sometimes they last for 5 flights)
- Tail rotor gear (hit the tail on something and the gear can break, not often but possible)



Also - The Century Hummingbird FP also shares some of the same parts as the Honeybee Fixed Pitch. Its funny because they are both referred to as "HBFP's" but the Hummingbird is a rare heli so anytime you see "HBFP" they are talking about the E_Sky HoneyBee Fixed Pitch (99.9% of the time ).

http://www.heli-world.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=381&view=all

Thanks for the info guys.



Kyle

just got new pics of the HBFP V2 e-mailed to me, arghh I want one

Pics posted above

Awesome, Ive checked with my local hobby store, due in 4-6weeks here in new zealand, it looks like it has all the same head parts, so I should be able to swap all my xtreme metal parts over to that.

The hobby shop couldnt give me any prices as yet, hope its not to dear!!!

I also hope esky continue to make standard FP parts, as Im still in love with my original fp!

I can't imagine it will be too much more then the original, otherwise it wouldn't sell

Marc, I was just woundering if the new HBFP V2 is balanced better or is it still tail heavy, besides balancing the blades, tracking them, checking all the screws, making sure the swash plate is level what else do you (in your short time with it) think a newbe will have to set up before flight verses the V1 (zip ties, paper clips etc.) from what I see, it looks like it is really "RTF".

cant wait until i can fly my v1 so i can get the v2 and not crash every 2-5 seconds.

btw my hbfp did a funnel all by its self right before i crashed it, so i know it can be done (i just dont know how to do it)lol

the only thing I had to do to it was adjust the gain a little bit, other then that it flew fine BUT I already know how to fly so it was really easy to pull it from the box and start flying it immediately, but when I get my own you'll see a whole new set of video for it which will cover most of the basics that a newbie would need to know

Cool, can't wait to see the new vid's

i am wondering why this new hbfp has an 11v battery when the older version uses a 7.4v?
is the 4-1 the same as before or has it been modified to sustain the bigger battery?
nuttz has warned before about 11v batteries frying the 4-1 so what is different on the new `Bee` to stop this happening?
also can anyone tell me what parts are/aren`t the same as the old version?

I think 4in1 is the same I was using 11.1V battery on my old hb fp for more than 6 months without any problems

P3tras wrote:

I think 4in1 is the same I was using 11.1V battery on my old hb fp for more than 6 months without any problems

it looks the same to me too.nuttz(plus a few others)have warned against using 11v but now the new one uses the 11v as standard
what difference does an 11v make compared to the 7.4v?
longer flights,better or faster responsive flights?

More power!!!

P3tras wrote:

More power!!!

i can understand that you get more power but how does that translate to response from the `Bee`
does it go higher,faster or just a longer flight

It is just like installing more powerful motor. It will be faster and it will climb more quickly. Flying time won't change too much

P3tras wrote:

It is just like installing more powerful motor. It will be faster and it will climb more quickly. Flying time won't change too much

that sounds excellent
seriously thinking about using the money i had saved for a cp heli to buy the new `Bee`instead
so maybe i should start buying 11v batteries,i can use `em on my hbfp now anyway(i think )

I had used 11.1v in my old HBFP for a long time but one day they wouldn't work on them, only 7.4v. But who knows, this new HBFP V2 is sweet and needs to be on 11.1v, time will tell, but the main motors won't last long, thats for sure.

Nuttcaze wrote:

But who knows, this new HBFP V2 is sweet and needs to be on 11.1v, time will tell, but the main motors won't last long, thats for sure.

does that mean the 7.4v batteries will be no good on the new `Bee`?

not sure, I'll let you know tomorrow

Nuttcaze wrote:

But who knows, this new HBFP V2 is sweet and needs to be on 11.1v, time will tell, but the main motors won't last long, thats for sure.

also nuttz,if it`s the same 4-1,motors and servos why does it have to be on 11.1v

I don't think 7.4v would give it enough power to lift the added weight of the HBFP V2 and if it does, the flight performance will most likely be affected in a bad way

Nuttcaze wrote:

I don't think 7.4v would give it enough power to lift the added weight of the HBFP V2 and if it does, the flight performance will most likely be affected in a bad way

isn`t it the approx same weight as the old version with superskids added?

I think its a bit heavier

Does this version use the same parts as the original HBFP, and are there any parts I'll need that are different from the original?

I'm fairly interested in buying this to start flying more and I just wanna make sure I can get parts for repairs. Also, how much are the batteries for this on average?

Head parts (which breaks most often) from V1 will work with V2. But frame, skids, flybar, tail box won't work from V1. Maybe there are more parts that won't work. I don't know about the batteries though

Sounds like I'm going to have to be a careful flier until parts are readily available then. Haha

Btw, any idea as to when these will be sold within the United States? $30 for shipping is a bit steep for impatience.

nope, no worries about breaking the new HBFP V2, I doubt the skids and frame will break, the tail boom is 8mm so you could either use the HBK II tail boom or go to your local sporting goods store and buy an arrow, most are 8mm in diameter and much stronger then the stock boom but even still you're not likely to break the boom, but all the head pieces are the same as the original HBFP (except the main shafts).