blade pitch question

I got my belt cp back from xheli. They replaced a servo. I went to check blade pitch by nutcaze video. They are way off. I won't list it. His video says when going from idle up to normal mode blade pitch should stay the same at mid stick 0 degrees. When i do this the swash plate drops about 1/4 inch. Example, When i go from 0 stick to mid stick in normal mode my blades go from +4 degrees to about + 7 degrees. From mid to full stick the go from +7 degrees to over + 14 degrees. I need some serious help. i'm thinking of going to hobby lobby in nashville tn to let them look at it.

Your pitch curves are not set right. What nuttcaze said is right. Your pitch at mid stick shoukd be at 0 for idle 1 and normal. Therefore. Normal mode at mid stick should be o. Ex. Normal. Should be at 48 49 50 77 and 100. Idle 1. Should be 0 25 50which is mid stick, than 75. Then 100.

Are you using a stock esky transmitter? If you are then it seems that's normal as mine does the same thing when going out of idle up mode the pitch drops a little. Also the Hover Pit knob will affect your pitch.

Hold the phone Guys!!!! When setting pitch and throttle curves there is no RIGHT way to set them!!!
It is more a question of personal prefreance!!!! There is no reason that the pitch MUST be zero at mid stick unless you want it to be.. The ONLY reason to have the curves both be ZERO at mid stick is so when you go in and out of IDLE UP the heli doesn't JUMP up or down!!!! As long as you know what it is gonna do you will be ok.. Set them how you want, how your comfortable...In fact setting them to be zero at mid really limits you in how you can set your heli to fly!!!!
Just my opinion!!!!
Mine in fact is at about 75% at mid stick in IDLE 1 thats what I fly in all the time.. My IDLE 1 curve is
like 35,40,75(mid) 85,100

It finally happened!

FD, I agree and dissagree with your statements. Yes the pitch curves can be whatever the user wants them to be, as long as they know what to expect, but I think for someone who is learning it is better to have 0 at mid-stick for normal and idle up and here is why.

If you have +12º to -12º range of pitch and you set up normal mode so that the full stick range goes from 0º at low stick to +12º at full stick then a couple of things are gonna happen.

1. At mid stick you are gonna have about +6º of pitch and that means that the heli will be in flight, but will only be at half throttle so the head speed will be low, therefor unstable.

2. It will not be a smooth PILOT transition to idle up mode because if the pitch curve is set correctly, the full positve side of the pitch range will be from mid stick up; then it will take alot less stick movement to acheive the same amount of pitch change, so the sensativity of the control will be totally different when going from NORMAL to IDLE UP.

Just my opinion! Again, like everything about this hobby, it is strictly user preference.

Let me know if there are flaws to my thinking because discussion keeps me thinking and gives me a better understanding!!!

J.

Well I gotta go out so I will reply fully later but, we did not go into throttle curves and that must be set to work with the pitch curve!! Which mine is.. I've set mine as I have cause I fly in the wind all the time.. And I nmeed to be able to pull the heli down.. so I can with this curve... My throttle goes something like this 0,70.85.90,100 this allows me to use the neg. pitch and DOES give me plenty of head speed!!

You are correct if you are using an aftermarket tx but by the way I read the original post, a stock tx is being used.

I will wait for your full response because I am interested in your thoughts on what I said about stick travel in relation to pitch change.... depending on how the curves are set up.

J.

I got a little lost on this one since the original posting, and was really curious to read the responses.

Shadowforce1946 said,

Quote :

His video says when going from idle up to normal mode blade pitch should stay the same at mid stick 0 degrees.

That doesn't sound right. When you switch from Idle Up to Normal, the pitch at mid-stick will change from 0 to some + pitch value (1/2 of your max. + pitch, since you are at 1/2 throttle - assuming stock TX)

Quote :

When i do this the swash plate drops about 1/4 inch.

That's normal when switching from Idle Up to Normal.

Quote :

When i go from 0 stick to mid stick in normal mode my blades go from +4 degrees to about + 7 degrees. From mid to full stick the go from +7 degrees to over + 14 degrees.

If you have 0 deg at midstick in Idle-up, BUT you have +4 deg at 0% stick in NORMAL, then I think (and if I'm wrong, I'm sure will be corrected) that you will need to lower entire swashplate equally on all sides, as well as adjust the blade push rods, until you can get 0 deg in Idle Up/mid-stick AND in Normal with 0 stick (basically back to stock settings.)

QUESTION:
Is this a v1 or v2 Belt CP?
The reason for the question is that I believe the v1 only has 1 set of rods that control blade pitch, but there are two sets of push rods on the v2 (1 set (long) from the swash to a control arm, and 1 set (short) from the control arms to the blade grips). This probably only complicates things even more...

I don't know if it was stated that you have a stock TX, but if you do then the throttle and pitch curves are fixed, and that when setting the blade pitch in Idle Up, the basic goal should be 0 deg at throttle/collective mid-stick.
Once that is set, you are looking to see that basically you have equal but opposite (- and +) pitch at 0% and 100% throttle stick, respectively.
NOW, when you flip from Idle Up to NORMAL, the pitch should be 0 at 0% throttle, and your high pitch measurement (+ pitch) at 100% throttle.
For example, right now in Idle Up, mine is at -10deg at 0% throttle stick, and at +10deg at full throttle stick. In Normal, it is 0deg and +10deg for 0% stick and 100% stick respectively.
NOTE: from jstarks post, I may recheck and readjust to lower my max. + and - pitch. Good info and explanation for why to keep the pitch a little less agressive, BTW.

I know that with a comp TX, most of that is right out the window, as you can set the curves however you want them.

Gents, I'm gonna bail out of this, for a couple reasons.. 1. I'm using a DX7 and I'm doing something way different than the norm. but it is working very very well for me and I decided long ago to try this
THEN went lookin for some info and found that what I do is patterend after some F3C pilots..And I don't wanty anyone confused by it and I don't want anyone tryin it and crashing which is very possible!!! 2nd. There is some talk about setting linkage rods and I'm not talkin about that at all!!! That is COMPLETLY DIFFERENT then what I'm talkin bout!!!!

shadowforce1946 wrote:

I got my belt cp back from xheli. They replaced a servo. I went to check blade pitch by nutcaze video. They are way off. I won't list it. His video says when going from idle up to normal mode blade pitch should stay the same at mid stick 0 degrees. When i do this the swash plate drops about 1/4 inch. Example, When i go from 0 stick to mid stick in normal mode my blades go from +4 degrees to about + 7 degrees. From mid to full stick the go from +7 degrees to over + 14 degrees. I need some serious help. i'm thinking of going to hobby lobby in nashville tn to let them look at it.

I'll have to watch my vid again to see if I said it wrong but what I meant is you should have 0 pitch at mid stick in idle up and 0 pitch at LOW stick in normal mode. It is normal for the servos to move when going from idle up to normal mode at mid stick.

If the pitch if off when you checked it, then start at the beginning and go through the set-up process and make sure everything is correct.

Transmitter on, all knobs and trims in the middle except the throttle trim, thats at the bottom.
Unplug motor, plug heli in
turn idle up on and move the throttle stick to the middle.
Verify that all servo arms and linkages are level or 90 degrees
verify that the swashplate is level
If the swashplate is too high or too low the washout arms won't be level. They need to be level.
make sure the upper mixing arms are level, as well as the flybar paddles.
Check the pitch, you need it to have 0 pitch
do that for both blades then check overall pitch range.
If you are getting something like +10 and -7 then the whole swashplate needs to be lowered, if you were getting something like +7 and -10 then the swashplate would need to be raised.
Just make sure you have the same amount of pitch in both directions, then go outside and check blade tracking.

I'm not sure if that made any sense but it did in my head, lol

I have the v2. I sent it back to xheli because some thing was wrong with it. they replaced a servo(don't know which 1) They test flew it. I hovered it in my garage this afternoon and it lifted off fine. I was at mid stick on lift off. Hovered at about 3 feet. Esky tx is really touchy on the elevator and aileron. Affter flying my hbfp v2 it is a different world.
Here are my settings,
Red blade
Idle up on 0 stick-5 degrees,mid+3,full throttle+13
Idle up off 0 stick+3,mid+7,full throttle,+ 14
Black blade
Idle up on 0 stick-7 degrees,mid+3,full throttle+10
Idle up off 0 stick+4,mid+7,full throttle+13 till thinking of taking to hobby lobby in nashville and see it they can do something with it. Will the dxi tx take care of this or does some thing need to be done to the swash plate and arms? I'm really not sure i can handle that. About the servo arms. In idle up they are all at 90 degrees, with idle up off they are about 70 to 80 degrees. When i go from idle up to normal the swash plate goes down about 1/4 inch.

Unless Hobby Lobby isn't going to charge you for doing the setup, then I think this is something that you should definitely be able to handle yourself.

As pitch setting is one of the most basic skills you should have and will need, you should be doing this yourself anyhow.

First, watch (or re-watch) Nuttcaze's ESky Belt CP V2 Beginners Guide - Part 3 video. It goes along with what he posted above. Make sure your swash is adjusted correctly first, then move to the blade pitch.

It looks like since you have different ranges in Idle-Up for the red and black blades (-5 to +13) and (-7 to +10) respectively, with +3 at mid-stick for both, then the swashplate is the first place to look.

Once you have it set, the rest should be cake. Follow Marc's instructions and you will be locked in in no time!

hey does ne1 else have a problem with blade tracking when it comes to woodies seems to be harder to get them tracked good unless that only happening to me cause i bought 2 sets of blade 400 stock woodies and they say 325mm but i put them up to the ones i got at xheli that were 325 and the xheli blades are smaller...

maybe cause they are longer then 325 even though they say 325 im getting more flex cause they seem to track good up untill i get over half stick