ZERO PITCH QUESTION?

OK GUYS i've been having the biggest problem trying to set my pitch to zero at mid stick with the 3d switch on it seems that i have the links as far as i can to make them short and it seems its still not good enough to get my 0 its lik 1 1/2 degress off and like i said links are as short as they go...


but then i was thinking when i hit the 3d switch nothing changes except for the throttle going up.... there seems to be no change in pitch when im at midstick and i hit the 3d switch my bet cp v2 goes down when i do the same thing..

so i was thinking maybe i can't get my 0 at midstick cause my pitch curves are not set right ..cause i was thinking maybe if when i hit the switch and the swash goes down then this would then give me more adjustments on my links? sorry for the ramblin does this make sense to anyone for not letting my get my links shorter so i can get 0 at mid with 3d switch on

Hey Burton,
You are using exceed 2.4ghz tx right? What pitch curves are set?

i checked the pitch curve a few hours ago dont remember the numbers but it was a nice steady slanted line 25 50 75 100 i think it was same as normal mode

also i just went out side with my belt and the dam think goes up so slow takes like 5 sec to get 15 feet high and full throttle the heli goes up very slow and and steady then a few times power went so low the heli went to the ground thought maybe it could me the esc but i hook up another motor to the wires to test it and it had nice full power do these bushless motors go bad after only like 60 battery cycles cause it seems it might me the motor ahhhh or esc

hey burton8012 I am having the same problem with my 450 zl. The links are as low as i can get them on the aliron and pitch servos in order to get the head to level out I even set the servo horns down one notch to get the head level. Now that it is I can not get the pitch set at zero at mid stick,my swash is level I used the sub trims on my DX6i to do that,but still can not get a zero pitch.


I am thinking that I can mess with curve a little to get it close and then adjust the links on the head.


I was kind of hoping you had this figured out by now so that I could start flying by now lol

i am so pissed off with this head i thought it was like all the other exi 450 ive spent no joke 3 or 4 hours straight a few times trying to get it right i even e-mail xheli yesterday bitching about it also xheli doesn't even sell that long link that goes all the way up to the blades basicly..i went to the hobby shop thinking i can just buy the t-rex link package and it would work....... no luck it would work if i would of bought any of the other exi's its this same link set that xheli sells just under a differnet branding (exi) i kinda gave up and i ordered a copter x last week and a DX7 and some good hi-tech servo hs-65mg .............

But i just started thinking about the pitch curve idea and how it might help us get the 0 degrees so im back on the ZL untill my other heli gets here so hopefully in the next 2 weeks me and you can figure this problem out...i thought i was doing something wrong but if your haveing the same prob its not just me.....keep me posted

i would really like for this thing to work but if this heli turns out to be a peice of crap and all the money i have dropped into it wasted I am going to boycot xheli and start a campaign like the one nutcaze did to bphobbies. I really am going to try to get it to work.

Also i noticed that your were going to get the dx7.... I would ask what you need the 7th channel for but forgot you have a exi 450 zl and withthe 7th channel just fly out over a field and use channel 7 to set the off the self distruct

ive had a few problems with xheli already they always send me what i didn't order i order the belt cpv2 flybar cause it got the notches to hold the bar better they send me some crappy one... i ordered 2 esc and they send me proton model ones when i ordered volcanco series i don't care if there the same i want what i ordered and what they have described on the web page AND one them was messed up and made my brand new zl go into the ceiling and gets burning hot just being turned on its all messed up.... order a alfa 400 exceed motor and some no name cheap looking grey and black motor in a plastic bag get delieverd it goes on and on.. i think im done with them

so far have not had many problems with xheli but they did send me the proton esc also and it is the same has the volcano (maybe) so far so good. and I can not get anyone on the phone.




Since my last post I noticed that two linkages on the ZL were not where i thought they shold be,I do not have a picture yet of what i did but it looks as if I might have solved the zero pitch problem,if not its close


This picture is from xheli and shows the ZL head the four line are what should be level and parallel with each other the oval is where i made the adjustment the two eyelets are almost touching each other but the blades are so close to zero that it should not take two many more adjustments if you have already have shortened the longer ones they might need to be screwed out longer to get the head parallel with it self.DO not know if this will help but it looks close and mabe I can get it closer.




also how are you checking for zero pitch i have a esky pitch gauage and I am not sure how to use it on this type head,so far I have eye balled everything.


I'll send to your email do not no how to post it

all pitch gauges are basicly the same should work on your head i just use my exi pitch gauge u gotta post some pics of what u mean I'm kinda lost on how u worded it

Hi Burton,
50 pitch curve on tx= 0 degrees on heli
100 pitch curve =Umm ~9 degrees
0 pitch curve= ~ -9 degrees

I think I found your problem. So if it is set 25 at no stick it should be ~ -4 degrees. Better make pitch curve 50, 62, 75, 87, 100 and then set your pitch at 0 degrees at no stick

007 wrote:

so far have not had many problems with xheli but they did send me the proton esc also and it is the same has the volcano (maybe) so far so good. and I can not get anyone on the phone.




Since my last post I noticed that two linkages on the ZL were not where i thought they shold be,I do not have a picture yet of what i did but it looks as if I might have solved the zero pitch problem,if not its close


This picture is from xheli and shows the ZL head the four line are what should be level and parallel with each other the oval is where i made the adjustment the two eyelets are almost touching each other but the blades are so close to zero that it should not take two many more adjustments if you have already have shortened the longer ones they might need to be screwed out longer to get the head parallel with it self.DO not know if this will help but it looks close and mabe I can get it closer.




also how are you checking for zero pitch i have a esky pitch gauage and I am not sure how to use it on this type head,so far I have eye balled everything.


I'll send to your email do not no how to post it

figured out how to post



and this is my picture not xhelis thats why it is so bad

ok how did u do that and are your servo 90 or u still have them slight off so u can get this all even ????? cause i was thinking u migght loose a little swash range by doing that

... did u start from the top and work your way down ?????to do this cause i start from bottom up so my swash gets full range i thought if i go from top down it might mess that up....im still lost why are u highlighting the forth line to show me the length?


P3 im gunna come back to what you said if this don't work

i started from the bottom withthe swash after I got it level I went and put the head back on then with the servo arms off I got the area on the second line level and put the servo rms backon the servos. By doing this I was able to get the head level next i adjusted the linkages in the yellow oval so that the arm on the blade grips is level with the paddle cage and d this made the blades at or near zero pitch as far as the servo arms they are still not 90 deg but I might have to resize the connection rods so that they are

OK COOL ill give it a try tomarrow when my dx7 gets here no point wasting time with my crappy radio

one more thing make sure the links between the 2nd and third line are same length mine were about 1/16 off


and if I can find a 2mm dye to rethread the control rod I will shorten it but first I am going to see if I can find one off another heli


I am glad I found someone else working on the same heli I don't think I could have solved this problem witout all the susport

you know i think it might just be easy to make custom links that are shorter i didn't know that u can do that is this what i need to do this?http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s460.htm
do u just got off what u don;t want and then use this tool to make the treads nice again?


what servos are you using on the zl?

burton you and i are on the same page i just looked at that link 5 min ago


how ever i found that if you use the med size belt cp v2 rod it is already the right length just need to switch out the eyelets needs to be about 2.2 to 2.3 mm long

the links on the belt should be about 4.5 mm any way you can use the ones from the zl for it


I am using esky 8g digtals about 10.00 a pop

2.3mm is between the eyelets not from center to center from the threaded part to the black plastic

to set the pitch zero at mid stick, You must do this. Normal mode: 48,49,50 77 100 for stunt 1 and stunt 2, 0 25 50 75 100. Now turn oyur tx on then the heli, make sure you unplug the 2 wires from the esc, flip it to stunt mode, then set your throttle at mid stick, then level the blades to zero pitch. at zero pitch, make sure the top of the pitch gauge levels to the fly bar at zero pitch on both blades. There, you should have a nice tracking blades. Also, i would recommend getting 12,0,12 on your pitch. this will make your heli a little responsive at throttle curve, (normal) 0 37 65 77 100 Stunt 1 at 85 80 75 80 85 and stunt 2 at 95 90 85 90 95. For mine, i use 14t pinion. But 13 is fine. oh and by the way, if you guys really want good tail, get the 401 with the 9257 futaba servo. Rock solid. Hope this helps.

blackrain do u have the exi zl mnodel?



hey 007 good thing i happened to buy a pack of belt cp links last week but the links are a little thicker and i had trouble trying to get the exi eyelets to fit so u are switching the balls to a different size belt cp ones?( belt cp eyelets and links and balls your converting too?)

hey 007 maybe we can just use a dremmel tool to basicly grind down the links to size ni need to really worry about the treads since the go oin plastic eyelets ..
cause we only need very tiny amount to be shaved away if none of the other ideas work

Hey Guys, Just for some info on the mentioned gyro's
The 401 with 9257 goes for 229.00 on sale right now @ heliproz
The Logictech 2100T with 3100G servo goes for 109.00 also @ HeliProz..
If you read what HeliProz writes, they say the 2100T is EVERY BIT AS GOOD AS the 401
THEY SELL BOTH!!! So you would think to believe them!!!
And they are suggesting to buy the cheaper one!!!

ohh nevermind FD u just made alittle type-o you put 57 when its the 54 good set but ronlund.com has a good deal same combo $60 cheaper u guys should check out ronlund.com his price seem like all the other sites but then you go to check out or look at your basket theres always 95% of the time cheaper then listed

THe only problem I had was that the threads wre a little tight at first but after I screwed them all the way in and backed them off they were fine just had to cut a new thread in the plastic, I dont think Iam going to go back with the exi control rod any time soon,because this is working so good.


What size pinion are you useing??????

im using a 13 tooth pin...

so u think its best if i just use the belt cp link rods and just use the exi eyelets and i should be good to go with getting my zero

go for it if for somr reason it does not work we can always get new ones,lol

alrighty ill give it a try i got my new DX7 on Tuesday and its awesome made my setup with all of this a breeze i....

think im gotta get new servos even though these are brand spanking new seems like my Pitch servo aren't insyc with the other too cause like lets say i go full throttle and at the very last second were they all meet at the top my back servo whitch i think is the pitch one pushes up a little more then the others and i have my swash level at mid stick just pushes up a little more then the others when at full throttle so0 it not my link lenghts gotta be the servo...

aslo a side note they are the exi 9 gram servos with some metal gears and they say they are digital but i think thats BS i think they are analong cause i tested many differnt brands of servo digital and analong with my gyro and only the exi ones seem to buzz and twitch back and forth ALOT and get very hot when my gyro is set for digital servos but when i switch to analog on gryo they work fine so im guess they have them labled wrong on xheli as digital

I think what your having a problem with can be fixed using the DX7 and the SWASH menu!! I don't think it is a servo issue. If they worked before they should with the DX7.

it was acting like that with my other tx too gotta be the servos then right???
unless like u said maybe i can adjust something with the dx7 to fix it what ya think