E-SKY Belt CP v2 - gyro questions

hello to everyone in this forum,

i fly this heli some weeks now, i always had problems with tail turns to left.

i read the manual from esky about the gyro, but i dont really understand it.

it says:

Delay/Gyro Gain adjustments:

+ (clockwise) increase the ability of Gyro to balance the helicopter (stable but less active)

- (counterclockwise) decrease the ability of Gyro to balance the helicopter (active but less stable)
i tried it with delay 0 (completely left) mid and max but i really cant tell a difference.

can anyone tell me, what is (less) stable or active when i increase the delay on the gyro?

i have the gain on my transmitter to ~9 o'clock and on the gyro delay is ~mid. after some minutes it begins to move the tail to the left. (guess because of temp drift).

how should i best setup this gyro?

Yes I have similar issue. What is happening is the servo begins to "creep." It is caused by change of temperature and the fact that its a cheap gyro.

What you will have to do is use rudder trim to stop the creep. Usually takes me 7 clicks.

Next time out, center trim again and re trim after gyro Initializes.

thanks for the answer, but i wanted to know what exactly the increase/decrease of the delay does!?

im confused about + stable but less active and - active but less stable

this gyro manual says:

generally speaking, the faster the tail servo responds, the gyros gain will increase. the faster the helicopters main rotors rotate, the tail servos responds will be stronger, therefore, the gain of gyro should be reduced.

whatever that means for my belt cp v2

sorry to hear that bro. Ive had that problem before. For me, Ive changed the 0704b gyro to telebee atv and it works great. Since then thats all ive been using. 45 bucks at helidirect.

I am not sure what the delay does. I just tried different positions and 9 o'clock works for me. If you turn it to max then the tail servo jitters.

GaryX1001 wrote:

thanks for the answer, but i wanted to know what exactly the increase/decrease of the delay does!?

im confused about + stable but less active and - active but less stable

this gyro manual says:

generally speaking, the faster the tail servo responds, the gyros gain will increase. the faster the helicopters main rotors rotate, the tail servos responds will be stronger, therefore, the gain of gyro should be reduced.

whatever that means for my belt cp v2

with the delay, usually you would make sure the dials on the gyro are at max and then use the gyro knob on the Tx to adjust the delay/gain up or down so that the tail holds steady, but I've had tons of problems with my Belt CP V2 gyro, I'm actually sure the gyro is fine but it just doesn't seem to work as it should with the ESky radio equipment

but I also think upgrading to a telebee is your best bet, they are awesome little gyros for a great price

Telebee HH gyro - $44

Nuttcaze wrote:

with the delay, usually you would make sure the dials on the gyro are at max and then use the gyro knob on the Tx to adjust the delay/gain up or down so that the tail holds steady, but I've had tons of problems with my Belt CP V2 gyro, I'm actually sure the gyro is fine but it just doesn't seem to work as it should with the ESky radio equipment

but I also think upgrading to a telebee is your best bet, they are awesome little gyros for a great price

Telebee HH gyro - $44

hi, today i did 2 tests with 2 different batteries, 1 stock belt cp v2 1800mha lipo and 1 Xcell eco 2200mha. i got a weird result:

with the original lipo, the heli tail turned to the left.
1h later i drove again outside to the field, but this time with the stronger battery, and now the tail shifted slowly to the right

i wonder if i should stop using the default battery, because when the tail is drifting to the left, i have a better chance to eleminate this rotation, increasing the gain or/and the delay on the gyro itself. i think this is because of the different rotating speed, the stronger battery seems to let the rotors spin abit faster.

about the telebee gyro, i would buy one, but i would have to import it, and with import tax and shipping costs this gyro would be too expensive i think.

Remember though. The two batterys are the same strength. The mAh rating only means how long they will let you fly.

Check the cell voltages of each batt right after you charge it and again 15 minutes later and see if there is any differance. Also see if either batt has a higher voltage.

Donnie D

Donnie D wrote:

Remember though. The two batterys are the same strength. The mAh rating only means how long they will let you fly.

Check the cell voltages of each batt right after you charge it and again 15 minutes later and see if there is any differance. Also see if either batt has a higher voltage.

Donnie D

heh, i cant check the voltages, i charge with the default esky balance charger and one cheap balance charger from art-tech :)

when i spin up and move the throttle up fast, i see a big difference between the 2 lipos. with the 2200mAh lipo it instandly climbs fast, with the 1800mAh lipo you see it doesnt increase the rotating speed in real time. its like delay.

If both batts are good the strength (voltage ) should be the same. The only differance would be the 2200 mAh should allow you a bit longer flight time and of course it should be a bit heavier.

Donnie D

well, it then looks like the original esky battery is giving up. maybe it doesnt deliver enough power to the heli, so it rotates slower at the same pitch compared to the 2200mAh lipo. i really can guess only.

both batteries are at the same weight, i added 10g aluminium plate to the esky lipo to make both the same.

i will do this test tomorrow again to check if there is still this difference.

If you're like me, I know money is allways an issue, but as soon as you can, you should get a better charger. The Thunder AC6 and the Thunder T6 are both good ones. I have the T6 and didn't realize the benevits until I got it.

Donnie D

GaryX1001 wrote:

...

i will do this test tomorrow again to check if there is still this difference.

well, test done and now im completely confused, lol.

i went out with both batteries charged, set my transmitter to normal mode, plugged in the esky lipo and initalized the heli. when it was done i thought about what i have read on the net today, to set the gyro delay to max. i did it, no jittering, servo stayed normal. now i switched to HH-mode without unplugging the lipo and reinitalizing. i just tried to take off, successful. tail didnt drift! i flew some minutes and couldnt believe it.

i landed and plugged the other lipo into the heli and initalized the same way. tail was not moving again, just abit to the right, depending on the throttle. with the esky one there was completely no drift!

well, i really dont know what this delay knob does but it seems to work better with it at max -- on the transmitter i have gain at half past 9.

ok, just an update:

i found one thing which was not right,

the Tail L control arm which moves the tail rotor control arm had a problem to move the last 3mm in tail boom direction smooth. i had to put an extra washer onto it to make it go easy. now i think i found a second problem but not sure,

when i set the limitter on the gyro, i cannot make it go strong on its movement ends anymore, i know you shouldnt drive with pressure against the tail boom or the tail rotor but i remember, when i first used this heli with factory settings, the whole plastic arm on the tail driven set bent when i moved to the end position. is it possible that my tail servo is damaged? i can set the limitter to max setting, but there is no increase in the moving way. i also dont hear the zzzZzzz sound from the tail servo, not being able to drive on the end point. the servo works, i can steer the tail, but this limitter limitation makes me wonder. maybe thats why its tail is always drifting?

Ok first you do not set limit on the gyro to the max. You set it so that when you push rudder stick in each direction the slider does not hit or binds. On my Belt CP v2 I had to turn it very little from "-" sign. If you turn it to max then the heli will turn one way slower than the other.

Just read today here https://myrcguidesforum.forumotion.net/6ch-collective-pitch-helicopters-f8/exi-450-esky-0704b-gyro-help-t945.htm that the delay should be at zero if you are using digital servo.

You need to check for servo creep and add some trim for it to stop drifting.

Check my post in that link for a good video on gyro setup.

hello,

yes i know i dont set the limitter to max, it was just a test. btw i was wrong, the limitter works, but only in HH-mode, in normal mode i can only adjust it a little, that was what made me wonder.

you say i need more than half way or 50% gain on my transmitter, hmm..
if i go higher than 10 o'clock the tail begins to wagg. i mostly have it between 9 and 10 o'clock. if i really need 50%, i dont know how to reach that stable.

servo didnt creep till now, maybe it will when i increase the gain?

if i mess with trim, i always have to set it to zero when initalizing and then retrimming :(
i use the stock e-sky transmitter.

Look at the light on the gyro. If its off then you are Not it HH mode.

How did you set the delay pot on the gyro?

it is steady red.

i've tested alot of delay settings, its best at max counter clockwise -> 0 i guess but i have to initiate the gyro more than once before the tail holds better.

the gyro works, just not that good. if these slow drifts would go away i would be able to practise more with the ruder.

i've tried 9 /12 /2 /3/ max o'clock too, best was minimum and one time max delay worked too, but the tail was abit waggy at max.

i really think about a telebee gyro.. if it is any better.

i've uploaded some videos, here is one drifting video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qaV3p-G5h0

the others you find at https://www.youtube.com/GaryX1001

Flagmax, you are wrong. Using less than 50% gain won't put you into rate mode. Any gain can't put you into rate mode. If you use 0% gain gyro just stop correcting the tail. At 50% gain tail wags a little bit for me on my belt cp. So I set gain on around 40%
Donnie D, you are also a little bit wrong about batts. It is normal that with 2200mah battery heli is more powerful. Don't forget that not just more volts can increase power. 2200mah battery can deliver more Amps so the heli is more powerful with that battery. And for me, using 1800mah 20C battery and 2650mah 25C battery on belt cp makes pretty big difference

p3tras - you are full of it - you are WRONG - if the hh gyro light is not ON you are in RATE MODE period - you need to get your facts STRAIGHT VIC

The gyro LED is always on for me unless I put 0% gain. Of course if I am in HH mode And I didn't mention LED in my last post And if the led is off it doesn't mean that you are in the rate mode. If you put gain on 0% led will shut off. And the gyro will do nothing, just follow your inputs. It is just like connecting tail servo directly to the receiver.

P3tras, thanks for the correction. I checked it on my Heli and it behaves like you describe.

P3tras wrote:

Flagmax, you are wrong. Using less than 50% gain won't put you into rate mode. Any gain can't put you into rate mode. If you use 0% gain gyro just stop correcting the tail. At 50% gain tail wags a little bit for me on my belt cp. So I set gain on around 40%
Donnie D, you are also a little bit wrong about batts. It is normal that with 2200mah battery heli is more powerful. Don't forget that not just more volts can increase power. 2200mah battery can deliver more Amps so the heli is more powerful with that battery. And for me, using 1800mah 20C battery and 2650mah 25C battery on belt cp makes pretty big difference

after alot of testing i came to the conclution it is the e-sky gyro. it is just the temp which makes the tail not being stable.

i flew when it was cloudy, no sun, and the tail was good to handle.
yes, the difference between a 2xxx mah battery and the e-sky 1800mah battery is very noticable.

when i get these drifts of the tail, land, set the gyro switch to normal mode, disconnect the battery in the heli, switch to heading hold mode and reconnect the battery the drift goes away.

i wonder if the telebee gyro has these big temp problems too, otherwise i would import one.

Hey guys, DD is not wrong about the 2200 vs 1800 being same power just longer flight time!! But the diff. you see is in the 20c vs 25c ratings 25c can deliver more power(amps) at a given time!

the Telebees work great but it is best to let them adjust to the temp of the area you're flying

Nuttcaze wrote:

the Telebees work great but it is best to let them adjust to the temp of the area you're flying

is it possible to fly while the sun is shining?
i mean, when the sun shines, and i let the heli stand some minutes in the sun it might be ok, but as soon the heli spins and takes off the temp changes again, doesnt it?

i also have a funny question:
i fly sometimes with heli-X and the helis there fly damn stable. when i compare it to my belt cp v2.. big

it doesnt fly bad at all, but in heli-x flying is really simple.
if i do a bad move with the belt cp v2 (wrong direction on the stick) the heli gets out of control very fast if i dont correct the move instandly.

is there such a big difference in real flight between expensive helis and the belt cp v2?


i have a last question about the swash-blade:

mine swings a very little bit when the main rotor spins down. i dont know which of the 3 rods from the servos to the swash-blade i should shorten/make longer.
when i move the throttle with motor disconnected the swash-blade moves up/down smooth without jumps, all 3 rods seems to be ok, but when it spins i see small jumps.
is there a easy way to fix this?

with the gyro,its just that it doesn't like big temp changes really quick, but no you wouldn't have any problems with it in the sun or clouds, I've even used mine at 10 degree F

when it come to expensive helis vs the Belt CP, in basic forward flight you won't notice too much difference but the moment you stop to hover or do anything close to 3D you'll notice real quick the differences in stability.

But when it comes to big helis vs small helis the difference is night and day.

I'm not sure what you mean by the third question, is the blades tracking out?

Nuttcaze wrote:

with the gyro,its just that it doesn't like big temp changes really quick, but no you wouldn't have any problems with it in the sun or clouds, I've even used mine at 10 degree F

when it come to expensive helis vs the Belt CP, in basic forward flight you won't notice too much difference but the moment you stop to hover or do anything close to 3D you'll notice real quick the differences in stability.

But when it comes to big helis vs small helis the difference is night and day.

I'm not sure what you mean by the third question, is the blades tracking out?

no, ive adjusted the blades tracking to rotate in one line, i mean the rods to the swash blade coming from the |_ servo arms. it looks like one of the two aileron rods has a false lenght when the main rotor rotates. the front nick/elevator rod is not jumping.
when i hover the heli it always wants to roll abit left, when i hover in higher air (5m or more) it also wants to roll, sometimes left sometimes right, i have to correct this all the time. i think all the plastic parts do not move very easy, the swashplate doesnt center completely to neutral position when i center the sticks.

One thing to keep in mind, When a heli is in perfect tune, balance and soforth it will NOT act the same each time!!! One time it will roll right next it will go back then right then left and so on. The point is that in perfect trim, its balanced on the colom of air and it will never act the same way!!