results of honey bee FP upgrades

worked all day on trying different stuff wound up with this..
micro heli blue cnc blade grips

extreme center hub/shaft

extreme flybar paddle

extreme swash plate

super skids

extreme 380 motor

I tried the carbon fiber blades that are supposed to be great, but they vibrated terribly so much balancing on the heli was outta the question... I tried the extreme blade grips but the seem to fit tight o the bearings of the hub and didnt move freely so I ended up using the blue cnc grip by micr-heli/ when I got the heavier head gear and super skids on the heli was miserably underpowered, so I put the extrreme 380 motor on it EHBOO5 from heli direct, and it is three times more powerfull than the stock esky, and three times quiter, and lasts longer per charge a very smooth running heli now!!!

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here it is aint it purrrddeeee....

the cnc stuff it is veeerrryy smooth....

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Looks nice man can u get a video of it in flight?

Sounds like a reasonable upgrade path for HBFP.

Is that the same motor as this one - Link?

How stout is the vertical tail fin/anti-strike rod in the super skids kit?

uh no I have no vid camera and am pretty much a solo flyer for now LOL!! And Yes that is the motor- alot more power than the stock one... I found a problem with the micro-heli blue cnc blade grips they want to slip off the bearings to the side, so I put the extreme gripds back on and will try that, may end up back to plastic if the extremes are too tight which they seem to be once the links are connected.......Gawd I just looove dis stuff.... te tail surt on the super shids sems to eally beef up the strike bar as long as its tight....

Does the little ball on the strike ball come with the super skids?

I hear you on the frustration. It's always so windy I don't know why I bother . . . I have to fly when it's too windy for the little electric birds and end up breaking them.

Yep the little ball is part of the kit- holds on tightly and the tail is reeeely solid with the set up, and I just burned a batt or two trying the extreme blade grips which as I said fit tightly on the bearings when then links are hooked up,,, and,,,, I LIKE IT-----alot more stable with the tightr blade grips!!!!That was with the all platic stock rotor head swash etc and the extreme blade grips with,, da 380X extreme motor could be the winning combo!!!! till i figure out how to screw that up.........

How can you have the plastic rotor head and Xtreme blade grips? It's one part

I've broken a couple of the plastic rotor heads. The little ball links snap easy if I hit anything with the rotor. One part I would not mind upgrading at all . . .

Jack the R wrote:

How can you have the plastic rotor head and Xtreme blade grips? It's one part

I've broken a couple of the plastic rotor heads. The little ball links snap easy if I hit anything with the rotor. One part I would not mind upgrading at all . . .

uhhh the grips are a seperate piece that snaps onto the plastic rotor head/bearings--

I'm confused.

You're putting metal parts on this -



?

Hi there, take a look at this

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9604924&postcount=1820

I tried the O-ring link replacement. It didn't work for me. I suspect there was too much streach in the O-rings which caused instability.

Your mileage may vary though!

Curt

I just buy the linkages in multiple quantities, they are inexpensive. They are the weak link in my upgraded head assembly.

Brutus5 wrote:

Hi there, take a look at this

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9604924&postcount=1820

Cool, I had been thinking along those lines but not implemented anything yet. Where does one acquire these o-rings?

I've purchased a O-ring set from a car dealer

Do they have a size?

The one in the link say's 1/2x3/8x1/16. But, I didn't get hold of that so I use metric one's. And they are 14x10x1,8mm.
Sorry, 12x10x1,8 it is

Jack the R wrote:

I'm confused.

You're putting metal parts on this -



?

No, I meapgrade all metal blade grips by extreme heli direct has them ...

Xtreme metal rotor head/grips on the plastic center hub set?



Silly heli terminology.

Yep. the cnc grips fit on the plastic or the upgrade metal hub as well.....

Hey!

I succeeded in getting the Xtreme Composite Blade Grip to work!

Firstly to clarify: the Composite Blade Grip consists of 3 main part:
-a metal frame
-a plastic inner hub, that grips onto the two bearings on the central hub
-a fibre plate
See this link for a detailed view:

When I first tried the Composite Blade Grip it made my HBFP vibrate out of control. While I was using a balanced set of blades.
I also needed to put the plastic hub on the central hub before tightening the 4 screws that fix the inner hub to the metal frame. Because tightening these screws deformed the plastic inner hub.

After removing the inner hub from the metal frame, I noticed that the 4 screws had forced some of the plastic upwards. Furthermore, the plastic inner hub has small brims on the sides, from the mould it was cast in. I removed the excess plastic on the sides and on top of the screw holes.

Now the inner hub more easily fits within the metal frame. I can now completely assemble the rotor heads with blades before putting it onto the central hub. It snaps onto the central hub like the stock plastic rotor head. And more importantly, it spins without vibrating!

Hope this helps!

I don't remember if this was mentioned, but I found a thread that talks about the Xtreme motor burning out the 4-in-1:

Link

Correct!
I am using a 7,5 amp fuse between the Xtreme motor and the 4in1. A fuse is also a good idea when you are using a stock motor. A sudden halt of the motor (while giving throttle) while short the ESC.
Until now I have repaplaced the fuse 4 times! So this simple mod saved me four 4in1s

Where did you get your fuse and how did you set it up?

Just take one of the motor wires, cut it, and solder a fuse inbetween.
I (and most people) use car fuses (not glas) On Ebay I bought a lot of 125 7.5 amp micro car fuses....let the fun begin

Similarly, I but a 3 amp fuse on the tail motor. I saw somewhere that a 2.5 amp fuse is recommended, but that a 3 amp fuse will also do. I still have to burn that one...

I don't have the link not, will try to post it later.

RC car fuse, or full scale car fuse? I'm guessing the latter.

Can't tell you how much I wish I'd known this before burning out my HBFP's 4-in-1.

At any car parts store;ie O'Rielly's, Autozone, Pepboy's, etc.., you can get an inline fuse holder so that you do not have to solder everytime. Just pull out the blown fuse and put another one in!

Have you got any idea what amp fuse Xtreme uses for their 180 motor size setup -



Link

I emailed Miracle Mart's customer service about adding this to an order I just made, but no reply, so I guess I'll make my own rather than pay another S&H fee.

edit- nevermind, I found it, 5 amps. Great thread about putting fuses on the Lama here -

LInk

Now can anyone tell me why they soldered the fuses onto the motors instead of into the wires, as Xtreme does?

Hey Gentlemen, I hear your frustration, I to went down that road with the extreme 380 motor and the fuses. After burning a couple hand fulls of fuses I gave up. I even bought a second motor thinking maybe I got a bad one. Just kept burning more fuses so I went to a Slo-Max 300. The copter flew great and I have been using them sense. End of story right , not quite, it seems that Slo-Max are becoming increasingly hard to find. I'm trying a new motor now it's one up from the Avionics Slo-Max. It's the Avionics Baron 330 it has removable brushes and ball bearings. So far it has plenty of power and runs smooth, the only thing is that it runs hot, I have about a dozen flites on the motor maybe when I get more time on it the temp will go down.

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Sorry about the blurry pic not that good with the camera

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I also tried a direct drive tail, but couldn't stand the noise. My remedy for that and not burn out a tail motor every week was to go with a double motor tail. It splits the power so the motors seem to last for ever.

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I hope this will shed some light for someone.

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Later,Phil

I've been wondering about direct drive vs double motor tail, but I hadn't considered the noise issue. The stock tail has more buzz than I like, would hate to have more of it.

Is everyone having trouble with the Xtreme 380?

Since my 4-in-1 is out of action, I'm thinking of switching to another transmitter with independent esc's and a heading hold gyro. Not gonna do it for a while, but it's on my mind. Maybe I should do a brushless main motor while I'm at it.

coptercrazy - Why not try adding another heat sink? Maybe you can get 2 more on.